C Pedal Tuning Problem
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Levi Hambright
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- Location: Schoolcraft
- State/Province: Michigan
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C Pedal Tuning Problem
Hey there, I'm having problems with the 4th string when hitting the C pedal on my BMI s10. The string wont go past an F, even after backing the nylon tuner off. I've backed it off completely and then it still ends up overtuning to the point of not being able to reach the tuner with the tool.
Would backing the tuner off between putting a on new string help?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Would backing the tuner off between putting a on new string help?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
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J Fletcher
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Re: C Pedal Tuning Problem
Hi. Did the problem just show up , or has it always been there ? Loosening the nylon tuning nut usually makes the raise flatter . Jerry
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Levi Hambright
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Re: C Pedal Tuning Problem
The tuner was turned in pretty far when I got it, but it seems like it's gotten worse.
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Levi Hambright
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Re: C Pedal Tuning Problem
To clarify, i tried backing it off to give it room to get up to pitch. The tuner had been turned far enough to where my tool wasn’t able to reach it when the pedal is pressed down. And when I’m able to get to pitch, it tunes the string up to an F when pedals are up.Levi Hambright wrote: 4 Feb 2026 11:09 am The tuner was turned in pretty far when I got it, but it seems like it's gotten worse.
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J Fletcher
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Re: C Pedal Tuning Problem
Have you looked at the topic directly above this thread ? It deals with your issue.
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Levi Hambright
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Re: C Pedal Tuning Problem
Took a look at that thread and was able to adjust the rod to have more pull, which gets me pretty much back up to a whole step from E. Thanks for pointing me that way! Definitely works for the time being.
I’m still finding that the nylon tuner is going too far in however. Any other advice or perhaps there was something I was missing from that other thread.
I’m still finding that the nylon tuner is going too far in however. Any other advice or perhaps there was something I was missing from that other thread.
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Lee Baucum
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Re: C Pedal Tuning Problem
You may need more travel for the pulls on that pedal.
The cross bars (Don Fritsche calls them pull bars, as I recall) usually have a short screw running through the bars, which when screwed in or out will reduce or increase the travel of the pedal and bell cranks (pullers). The end of the screw will touch the body of the guitar. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw clockwise to screw it in closer to the body to reduced travel. Turn the screw counterclockwise to increase travel.
The cross bars (Don Fritsche calls them pull bars, as I recall) usually have a short screw running through the bars, which when screwed in or out will reduce or increase the travel of the pedal and bell cranks (pullers). The end of the screw will touch the body of the guitar. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw clockwise to screw it in closer to the body to reduced travel. Turn the screw counterclockwise to increase travel.
Lee, from South Texas - Down On The Rio Grande
There are only two options as I see it.
Either I'm right, or there is a sinister conspiracy to conceal the fact that I'm right.
Williams Keyless S-10, BMI S-10, Evans FET-500LV, Fender Steel King, 2 Roland Cube 80XL's,
Sarno FreeLoader, Goodrich Passive Volume Pedals, Vintage ACE Pack-A-Seat
There are only two options as I see it.
Either I'm right, or there is a sinister conspiracy to conceal the fact that I'm right.
Williams Keyless S-10, BMI S-10, Evans FET-500LV, Fender Steel King, 2 Roland Cube 80XL's,
Sarno FreeLoader, Goodrich Passive Volume Pedals, Vintage ACE Pack-A-Seat
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Bobby D. Jones
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Re: C Pedal Tuning Problem
If the tuning nut is so deep in the guitar, You can not get the wrench on it. Look at the other rods and nylon tuning nuts in the changer window. Many guitars has some sort of a spacer on the pull rod behind the tuning nut. So the threaded part of the pull rod, Is not in contact with the holes in the changer lower and return bars.
MSA guitars has about 1 1/4" aluminum spacer behind the tuning nut.
Mullen guitars has about 5/8" Aluminum spacer.
GFI has about a 3/8" plastic spacer.
Good luck with this problem, Happy Steelin.
MSA guitars has about 1 1/4" aluminum spacer behind the tuning nut.
Mullen guitars has about 5/8" Aluminum spacer.
GFI has about a 3/8" plastic spacer.
Good luck with this problem, Happy Steelin.
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Levi Hambright
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Re: C Pedal Tuning Problem
Definitely ended up needing more pull on the pedal, finally got it to get to pitch no problem.Lee Baucum wrote: 4 Feb 2026 1:27 pm You may need more travel for the pulls on that pedal.
The cross bars (Don Fritsche calls them pull bars, as I recall) usually have a short screw running through the bars, which when screwed in or out will reduce or increase the travel of the pedal and bell cranks (pullers). The end of the screw will touch the body of the guitar. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw clockwise to screw it in closer to the body to reduced travel. Turn the screw counterclockwise to increase travel.
Somehow the nylon tuner is still going in really far when I press the pedal down though, but for now it seems to be solved enough before I have time to really take things apart and figure it out. Thanks everyone!
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Bobby D. Jones
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Re: C Pedal Tuning Problem
Good to hear you got the pull working correct.
If the tuning nut is going back, To far in the changer tuning window. There may be a missing sleeve on the pull rod, Or someone just used a short tuning nut on the guitar.
When ordering tuning nuts, Name of guitar, And you need 2 measurements. The diameter of the pull rod, And the length of the tuning nut.
There are 3 common size pull rods in USA steels, 3/32", 7/64" and 1/8".
Good Luck and Happy Steelin.
If the tuning nut is going back, To far in the changer tuning window. There may be a missing sleeve on the pull rod, Or someone just used a short tuning nut on the guitar.
When ordering tuning nuts, Name of guitar, And you need 2 measurements. The diameter of the pull rod, And the length of the tuning nut.
There are 3 common size pull rods in USA steels, 3/32", 7/64" and 1/8".
Good Luck and Happy Steelin.
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Lee Baucum
- Posts: 10838
- Joined: 11 Apr 1999 12:01 am
- Location: McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
- State/Province: Texas
- Country: United States
Re: C Pedal Tuning Problem
On your BMI there should be a small, bullet shaped metal sleeve between the tuning nut and the changer. The flat end of the metal sleeve presses against the tuning nut. The bullet nose presses against the changer.
Lee, from South Texas - Down On The Rio Grande
There are only two options as I see it.
Either I'm right, or there is a sinister conspiracy to conceal the fact that I'm right.
Williams Keyless S-10, BMI S-10, Evans FET-500LV, Fender Steel King, 2 Roland Cube 80XL's,
Sarno FreeLoader, Goodrich Passive Volume Pedals, Vintage ACE Pack-A-Seat
There are only two options as I see it.
Either I'm right, or there is a sinister conspiracy to conceal the fact that I'm right.
Williams Keyless S-10, BMI S-10, Evans FET-500LV, Fender Steel King, 2 Roland Cube 80XL's,
Sarno FreeLoader, Goodrich Passive Volume Pedals, Vintage ACE Pack-A-Seat
-
Levi Hambright
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 6 Nov 2025 11:41 pm
- Location: Schoolcraft
- State/Province: Michigan
- Country: United States
Re: C Pedal Tuning Problem
Alright y'all I'm sorry to keep asking for advice, but now I just can't get the 4th string E to stay in tune. I'll hit the C pedal and the E will go sharp, but hitting the LKL lever will set it back. Any ideas for whats going on?