Problems with string buzzing

[Alex Formento]

Hi all,
I'm a beginning steel player and have been playing on a Stage One. I just changed the strings for the first time since I got the guitar a month and a half ago and now I'm getting a lot string buzzing on the high E and G# strings. When I apply the C or b pedals or the knee levers the string cuts out almost entirely. I'm also having trouble with the low G# as it appears the bridge (I'm not sure what the terminology is) where the string goes through has become loose. I'll post pictures so you can get a better idea of what I'm talking about (the high E and low G# are currently not on the guitar). Thanks in advance!

[Alex Formento]

Low G# at the bridge

[Alex Formento]

[Alex Formento]

[Georg Sørtun]

First thing first: Why have you placed the strings between the bridge-rollers/-fingers, instead of over the middle of them where they should be?

[Alex Formento]

Whoops! Rookie mistake, thank you Georg.

[Georg Sørtun]

Thought so
You're welcome.

[David Nugent]

Helpful hint: each time that you change strings, rotate the nut rollers 1/4 turn before installing the new set of strings. This will prevent the strings from constantly riding in the same spot on the roller and wearing a groove, also a common cause of buzzing.

[Bill Moore]

Another thing you should do; make more windings at the tuning keys. 3-4 turns minimum on the wound strings 8-10 turns on the plain strings. They will stay in tune much better.

[Tony Prior]

As George pointed out, the slots between the smooth surface "polished" roller bridges are not smooth ! Strings are indeed vibrating.

George is always wide awake, good catch George !


Ahh, rookie mistake, don't worry, its only the first of many to come ! No big deal. We've all been there, some are still there !

[Georg Sørtun]

In-between the bridge rollers is where I sometimes push strings to save time when I want to inspect and/or wipe off those rollers without taking off the strings. But, then each string is slacked down to where it can be easily pushed aside without being damaged by the "operation". No way to play them in that "off-roller" position.

OP's pictures show tightened strings and the OP presented himself as a beginner, which is why I asked the question "why the strings were 'out there'".
And, yes, one doesn't have to be a beginner to make basic mistakes

[Bobby D. Jones]

Alex,If you look close in the bottom picture, There is a shadowed mark on the rollers from the other side of the bar, Where the strings have came up and across the changer finger.

Is there a slot in the back of the Changer Fingers that the little brass roller ball on the end of the string hook into?
Or is their a pin sticking out on the back of the Changer Fingers that the little brass roller ball would slide over to attach the string to the changer finger?
If no slot or pin to hold the end of the string, Would it be possible to shove the string down through the hole it now come up through, Take it down and around that medal stud and come up the middle of the wider polished finger.
Good Luck in stringing project and back to Happy Steelin. BDJ

[George Kimery]

What George said. Also make sure the end of the string on the ball end is up not down digging into the aluminum bridge. Oil the area between the strings each time you change strings and wipe the oil residue over the entire bridge. Oil the roller nuts and rotate them at each string change.

[Gene Tani]

I have pix of my stage 1 the way i got it before first string change, factory strung by Doug Earnest, I could send them. The idea being you want to match his number of windings around each tuning post so there's a straight line of string from changer to roller nut to tuner post. Also watch Mullen's head builder's string change tutorial (specifically for string 3) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkdbQOwvi8w

Also, w/Stage 1 questions, you can email him or put "Zum stage 1" in your subject line and that'll catch Doug Earnest's attention, usually pretty soon and you'll get a complete answer.