Tuning

William Griffith · Post by **William Griffith** » 11 Sep 2003 1:18 pm

Hi All, I have a 12U 7P and 6K, well I've never played any of the C6th pedals. Now I was trying to tune pedal 6, its set up like Jeff Newmans on the Carter web sight. The problem is when I engage the E lower lever to tune pedal 6 to a D, you have to turn the pedal tuning nut so far in that when released the open E is flated because the finger doesn't go back. Its a Fessenden if that matters. Any help would be super and lessons. Thanks so much for your help Bill

Moon in Alaska · Post by **Moon in Alaska** » 11 Sep 2003 4:48 pm

I don't have any experience with a Fessenden,
but most modern steel are simular. I would
try increasing the throw...you can move the
rod location in the pull finger...the farther
away from the cross shaft increases the pull lenght. You can also increase the pull by adjusting the stops on the pedal travel.
This will all work on my Carter,so good luck !

Moon in Alaska

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William Griffith · Post by **William Griffith** » 11 Sep 2003 5:32 pm

Hey Moon, Thank you very much for your response. I'll try that. Hey do you do any gold mining up there? I was up there year before last in the petersville area doing some dredging, found alittle more than a pound and had alot of fun. Its just so far from Florida. Thanks again Bill

Moon in Alaska · Post by **Moon in Alaska** » 12 Sep 2003 12:09 pm

Hi, Bill...
No, I don't gold mine, but I have moose hunted
up there on Petersville road..I know a lot
of small placer mining goes on up in that area..
Too bad you live SOOOOOOO- far away !!

Moon

------------------
<< Moon Mullin in Alaska >>
==Carter S-10==
<< Old Fender-400 >>
== Evans FET 500 Custom LV ==
<A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/moon9999610/alaska.html" TARGET=_blank>
CLICK HERE FOR MOON'S NEW WEB SITE</A>

Bengt Erlandsen · Post by **Bengt Erlandsen** » 12 Sep 2003 1:06 pm

As Moon said, sounds like there is not enough movement on the pedal that lowers 8 string to D. Also check that the return spring on string 8 is not to tight( might cause the raise-part of the changer to move. When moving a pull rod outwards from the cross-shaft to make the throw longer make sure the start and stop is synchronized with the split on the 4th string which is supposed to go back to E (probably best to get this tuned first and adjust th E-D on the 8th string afterwords.

Bengt Erlandsen

John Bechtel · Post by **John Bechtel** » 13 Sep 2003 12:13 am

All replies sound like good advice. Turn the guitar upside-down, and work each pedal and KL that raises. Do this very, very slowly! Any return-spring that lifts off of it's stop, needs more tention on that spring. (only enough tention to keep it from lifting off)

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“Big John” {(< Uh~
http://community.webtv.net/KeoniNui/BigJohnBechtels

C Dixon · Post by **C Dixon** » 13 Sep 2003 5:09 am

One of the problems in trying to diagnose a problem on a forum or phone, etc is; it is next to impossible for the listener to percieve sufficient facts to make an informed diagnosis.

Having said this, most of what has been suggested has at one time or another cured the problem in the past I am sure.

But caution, the exact cause of your problem may be NOTHING like what has been suggested. Since there could be many many causes of your problem.

I agree, and strongly suggest that before you tackle any remedy, you simply study your guitar carefully on the top, under the guitar and at the right end plate.

Compare a string that IS returning to the one that is not. And watch over and over what is going on with strings that are not having the problem. Experience has proven time and time again, that thorough study can be THE answer to problems. And sometimes you can see something you had not noticed even after looking at the same thing repeatedly.

This is how our precious Lord designed our incredible brain. One of man's most precious gifts.

May HE bless you in your quest,

carl

Larry Bell · Post by **Larry Bell** » 13 Sep 2003 5:23 am

Bill,
What you need to do is increase the pedal travel on P6. The way you do that is to loosen the pedal stop screw. It's located next to the hole the pedal rod attaches to. It sets the travel by stopping against the body when the pedal is not pressed.

To determine whether this is the problem:
1. Tune the nylon nut so that it's as close to in tune as you can get it
2. Wiggle the pedal rod for P6. There should be SOME slack (not much, but some). If it is tight, the problem most likely is not enough throw on the pedal.

To fix it:
1. Back off on the pedal stop set screw -- start with a couple of turns.
2. You'll be able to get it closer -- or perhaps completely in tune. If necessary, back off the screw until it has enough movement to lower all the way to D.

EMail me if you still have questions.
Good luck.

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<small>Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
2003 Fessenden S/D-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S-12 6x6, 1971 Dobro, Standel and Peavey Amps

William Griffith · Post by **William Griffith** » 13 Sep 2003 3:39 pm

Hey All, I just want to thank all of you for your help. I'd still be scratching if it was'nt for you. I just have to figure out what to do with it know. Thanks Bill